Wednesday, July 8, 2015

"The Whole Interruption" Hike

There's a lone geyser about 4 miles from Old Faithful that requires a 2 and 1/2 mile hike in to see.  It's on an old roadbed that follows the river most of the way with lots of river side flowers.  We started in cool chilly weather with the threat of rain and a little bear anxiety.  It didn't last long though as a family soon followed us with twin boys about age 4.  Their chatter would have frightened any bear in a 5 mile radius.  It hastened our trip a little too.  After the river bridge crossing we took time for some photos.


The river became a little more distant and opened to a beautiful meadow where sandhill cranes and elk are sometimes seen.


By this time we were about a mile from the geyser and we thought it might erupt as early as 11 am so we had about 1/2 hour to hustle there.  We could hear the twins coming too so we didn't linger.  The roadbed soon ended at a clearing in the woods as the land rose to a geyser hill before us.  We had been there about 5 minutes when the twins arrived.  We were sitting on a log for a snack when one twin joined us full of questions about why this geyser was out here all by itself etc.,etc.  Before we could answer the geyser began to rumble and puff and spout.


The father of the twins offered to take a photo for us in the midst of the 22 minute eruption.  We watched in total amazement at the shower of water and steam that blew across the hill and filled the creeks running to the river.  In minutes the twins were running down the creek and checking the water temperature.  (Just like some other twins I remember so well!!!!)


When the water blasts slowed and the steam phase started the twins were hustled away to continue their hike to Old Faithful, but not before our new little friend yelled, "But I want to see the whole interruption!"    Even their distracted mother chuckled at this one and off they went.  We stayed for the whole interruption.


Even the steam phase was dramatic!  Our return hike was much more leisurely without an eruption timeline or anyone following us.  We only had to resort to loud conversation and clapping a few times at blind corners in very beary spots.  It was a wonderful hike and our first five miler together in a very long time.


Just down the road from the Lone Star Geyser Trailhead is Kepler Cascades.  My sister Ann  had seen great photos of this spot before we left home and had me put it on the list.  It is a beautiful canyon and very long cascade.  My photo couldn't begin to show it off, but it is a magical place!  Thanks, Ann!



This is the same river we had hiked along to the Lone Star Geyser.  It journeys on to the Old Faithful area after the Cascade.  We are beginning to get a map in our minds and under foot for all the river connections in the Park.  So much to see and learn!

Thursday, July 2, 2015

Hikes - High and Low

Yellowstone, like the Grand Canyon, has a North Rim and South Rim too!  The Yellowstone River Canyon has a drive and a trail to explore on each side of the canyon.  We've made 2 hikes on the North Rim, one to near the base of the Lower Falls and another to the brink of the Upper Falls.  ( The Lower Falls is the one most pictured-especially the art of Thomas Moran.)


There's a snow bank still visible to the right.  Click on the photo for a better look.  The short hike down to Red Rock Point ends in a series of steps after a series of switchbacks.  Well worth the climb out!


A few weeks later we started the North Rim Trail where it begins and followed the quiet Yellowstone River on an old roadbed to where it narrows and drops 100 feet in the Upper Falls.


The drop is beginning here and becomes a tremendous roar as it goes over the falls in a short twist among huge rocks.



We hiked on to Crystal Falls in a cool forest glen with only a few folks around.  It was a peaceful spot after the crowds at the Brink of the Upper Falls Overlook.


Notice the little pool and second fall on the right about midway down.  I think the 'little people' bathe there.

My first Ranger Hike in the Park was at Geyser Hill an area behind Old Faithful that has a loop boardwalk passing many springs and geysers.  We had a group of about 20 and a young ranger who forgot to introduce himself.  I thought about our routine at Heceta Head making that part of our welcome!! 


The Ranger warned us at the start that most of his tours had to be re-routed due to wildlife.  This tour was true to form.


We watched people walk up behind the bison trying to get photos and our ranger sent them back.  It was only a few days after the 2nd goring at Old Faithful.  We had to retrace our steps- about 2/3 of the tour- but I was happy to return to 2 of my favorites.  Here's Anemone Geyser which erupted just as the ranger finished his talk.  It seemed as if on cue.


And here's Doublet Pool- my most favorite!  There are 2 of these beauties linked together.


The photo through the steam can't touch the rich aqua blue and the peach and white crust.  The colors are created by micro plants called thermophiles.  See what I learned!  Thanks, Ranger!

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Northeast Yellowstone-Lamar Valley

One of the best things about being here at Yellowstone is the unexpected knocks on the door when Anthony comes to visit.  We miss working with him as we did at Great Basin, but touring the Park that he knows so well with him is a delight!  Our second adventure together was an area about 40 miles northeast of Madison in the Lamar Valley.  This area is one of two valleys known for wildlife and it is more remote and less traveled.  We had not ventured that far north yet.  We went over Dunraven Pass below Mt. Washburn to the Tower Falls Area.


Snow is still melting in this area so the Falls was very impressive!  We had a quick lunch at the grill there.  A big waffle cone of the local Montana dairy-Double Chocolate Almond ice cream was a great choice for me!

The Lamar Valley quickly proved itself when Anthony spotted a bear on the ridge.  We dived into one of the last spaces in a pullout to get some pictures. ( If you click on the picture, it will enlarge. ) All my closeups show the bear nose down enjoying his breakfast.


In the next few miles we began to see lots of Bison and calves.  The meadow strewn hills behind the herd made a perfect setting for photos.


The Lamar River makes this lovely valley and Anthony knew a great spot for a walk down to the river edge.  The mud didn't reveal any wolf tracks, but the flowers in full bloom made me want a closeup view.


Terry and Anthony stayed behind to enjoy the river sights and sounds.


The roadway leaves the Valley and gets into high mountains and forests as it leaves Yellowstone and enters 2 small towns, Silver Gate and Cooke City, MT.  We stopped for a snack near this cabin under the still snowy peak at the northeast Park Entrance.

All the beauty we saw in this one corner of the Park made Anthony's comment so true that located anywhere else this would be Lamar Valley National Park.  The entire trip was almost more beauty in a day than we could take in.  We found several trails we'd like to wander next time!!

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Old Faithful Inn Flag Ceremony




The Old Faithful Inn is one of those magnificent old log lodges of the National Parks.  It has survived earthquake, wind and fire literally.  If you notice the roofline it has flags and pennants around a rooftop walk.  Each morning and evening an employee raises and lowers the flag.  One of the host couples we work with arranged a tour for us that included lowering the flag.  It was quite an experience!!!!


We waited for our guide in the chairs below the fireplace chimney.  He led us up to the 3rd balcony level and then unlocked the stairs to the 'Crow's Nest'.  The stairs got more and more narrow as we climbed and at the very peak of the roof he took us to the 'Tree House' included by the architect who always wanted one as a child.

Each twisty, curving log was selected by the builders and all came from the Park!  It was a total surprise to find such a space so high in the dark rooftop.  Some light from the top windows is visible in the background!  Before the 1959 Earthquake visitors were allowed to visit this area.  We were assured it was still safe for us - 56 years later!  Below is a view of it and the walkway to it from the lobby.


The stairs are on the far end wall and the Tree House floor and top are visible where the stairs end.  You can see how dark and high it is!  A little scary!  and one of our hosts has a fear of heights, but she pushed through to the flying colors on top.  From the Tree House level we went outside to climb stairs on the roof to the 'Crow's Nest' walkway and flags.


The view across the Geyser Hill is fantastic.  As you can see it was quite windy and cold up there!


After our guide took down the Montana Flag, our two veteran hosts lowered the American Flag, Dave and Terry.


After the lowering, they folded the flag properly and handed it off to our guide!  We felt so honored to be part of the daily ritual and appreciated being invited by our fellow hosts, Liz and Randy.


After we made the even more challenging descent, we headed right to the Lounge/Bar to celebrate the experience with a drink and pub supper!!  It was great to share such a fine time with our fellow hosts in a most unique Old Faithful Inn event.

Friday, May 22, 2015

Early May YNP Rambles

North of our Park location is the North Entrance or Mammoth Area.  We needed a nice lunch spot for my birthday so we found the Mammoth Hotel Dining Room. Nice!!!


Then we joined the photo mania on our journey east toward Roosevelt Lodge.  Here's a field of Bison.


And a bear looking for lunch!


Here's the Gibbon River Falls and the river meanders below it.



The Gibbon River and the Firehole River join just below our campground to make the Madison River that eventually flows into the Missouri River.  Here's the junction or 'confluence' as the Rangers say.


This is a late evening photo, our favorite time to walk along the Gibbon and gaze beyond it to the Firehole.  The evening we arrived a large herd of Bison surprised us as they grazed along the Gibbon welcoming us to our CG home.  The Madison River begins at the distant center of the photo.  Tomorrow the fishing season opens and the river banks will crowd with 'fly fishers'.  Change is constant.

Saturday, May 16, 2015

" Where the Bison Roam"

After only 10 days of living in Yellowstone, we have learned the bison do roam everywhere and require drivers to pay constant attention as they frequently cross or walk the roads.  The roads are mostly along rivers and creeks that are pathways for the bison to travel.  Drivers are using the bison's natural pathways so it's a matter of sharing.  This is a busy season for bison with many cows and calves.  Within 2-3 hours of birth the calves can keep pace with the herd, but they do nap a lot.


Most of our job as hosts is to run interference between people and the wildlife.  Twice a day we check the campsites for food, utensils or other scented items left out.  We try to educate campers with notes and item removals to bear boxes or other safe storage.  We can be called at any time to help with traffic control at 'wildlife jams' in our district.  Terry worked a grizzly and cub jam that was repeated 3 times as the grizzly moved down the meadow.  We found and managed bison crossing the road at the Madison River bridge nearest our campground a few days ago.  It is very rewarding to help both people and wildlife as they co-exist here.  Each day is full of surprising encounters.


This is our site on Loop B # 30.  The NPS truck is available to us on our 2 days of campground duty.  We make 3 trips around the CG each day at about 3.5 miles each so it is great to have it.  We try to walk our first loop before the afternoon storms.  On our 3rd day of duty we are assigned a project or choose one.  There are plenty of clean up jobs that we have found to do. 

Yesterday's afternoon storm was late in arriving and gave us a most beautiful morning surprise.  This is the Madison River on the road to the town of West Yellowstone.  It is snowing like crazy and the CG has over 6 inches of snow.


We were toasty warm in our new 4 Season, super insulated, no slide out trailer and very thankful for it. The CG power went out, but our propane kicked in as back-up.  Since today is our day off we stuck with our plan to come to the library and came in a little early for a nice breakfast first.


On my birthday we visited the northern part of the Park for the first time.  We saw 2 bears, elk, moose and lots of bison.  Goggle Yellowstone NP and check out the webcams, one of Electric Peak is in this area and there is one of Old Faithful too (about 17 miles south of us).  You will see lots more snow!!!

All for now- so much to share! 

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Return to the "Summer Home" and Old Trails

Traveling West to our Yellowstone Host Job- April 22- May 3

Since we will bring our Creekside trailer home with us in December, we stayed in motels on the trip west.  Even motels can be fun when you find one like the Sunset in Moriarty, NM.  It is a remodeled 1950's, Route 66 treasure.  We enjoyed 2 days there after a shady stay in Forrest City, OK and a nice Best Western in Weatherford, OK.  The time there was quite relaxing and helped us push on to Apache Junction, AZ where our summer home awaited us.  Gayle was there with the key since Art and Janette were visiting the new grandchildren in Beaverton, OR.  We missed them.

We planned our trip toward Yellowstone through some of our favorite places in the Southwest; north to Flagstaff, shopping at Cameron Trading Post and a first ever stay at Lee's Ferry on the Colorado River as it enters the Grand Canyon.  The Lee Family really did have the first ferry here to help Mormon settlers cross the river into AZ territory.  The National Recreation Area has a campground just above the river.



We could watch the sun setting over the river from our picnic table and the dinette inside the trailer.


Wildflowers and cacti were blooming everywhere.  Terry photographed this prickly pear cactus on our sunset walk.


The river foamed over rapids as it moved past our camp toward the Grand Canyon and it's soft rumble put us quickly to sleep at night.


The gorgeous sunrise awoke me before 6 to capture the morning light on the canyon walls.



The beauty of this first visit assured us that we will again travel the 30 extra miles off our 'beaten path' to spend more time here.  It was very hard to leave the cool early morning and the gurgling of the river to head on north to familiar places in Utah and a day for laundry and groceries.  Taking care of business is part of the journey too!

Tomorrow we will return to Great Basin National Park where we first hosted in the summer of 2011.  It will be wonderful to return to this place that will always be our western 'home away from home'.  We hope to arrive at Yellowstone NP on Sunday, May 3.

Monday, April 6, 2015

Living on the edge…….of the Yellowstone Caldera

In 16 days - April 22- we will set off for a summer season as hosts in Yellowstone NP.

The journey really began 4 years ago when we met Ranger Anthony at our first host job in Great Basin NP.    When we left Great Basin for Oregon 2 seasons later, Anthony went to Yellowstone as a Law Enforcement Ranger.  We visited him there in August of 2013 and he visited us in Oregon twice since.

Last Sept. he emailed us that 2 campground hosts were not returning and we needed to come fill their spot.  We were already planning to return to the Oregon Coast and work with our friends Art and Janette again so we refused the offer.  After about a week it registered that we could actually have the experience of living in Yellowstone NP for 4 months and the only thing to do was leave our Oregon 'comfort zone' and jump at the chance.  So we plan to arrive on May 5 and stay until after Labor Day.


We will be located at Madison Campground which is 14 miles from the West Yellowstone, Montana entrance.  The CG is perched right on the edge of the caldera ( or 30x45 mile hole left after the massive Yellowstone eruption).  Most of the hot spots like the Midway Geyser Basin shown above are within the caldera.  The Madison river flows just in front of the CG with a fisherman's trail that I hope to haunt.


The amazing Grand Prismatic Hot Spring is located in Midway Geyser Basin also --about 14 miles from our CG.  The bands of color are created by algae.  Old Faithful is 17 miles from Madison CG.  So if you have been thinking of a trip to Yellowstone, make it this summer and come visit us.  Just get your reservation soon!

We'll send photos of the Madison area once we settle in!

Monday, March 2, 2015

Seeing San Antonio and a Taste of Cajun Country

Ever since my first sensational trip to Texas in 2010 I have wanted to visit San Antonio.  We'd missed a few chances coming and going west, but we hardly knew how to tackle such a big city.  We were just waiting for the invite we received this summer in Oregon.  Our August campfire buddies, Ken and Karen, live in San Antonio and asked us to come visit for a few days on our way home.  They are volunteers at the Alamo and the Missions and offered to give us the 'inside' tours.  How exciting!!!  We eagerly accepted the invite!


So here we are at the premier site in Texas.  I was absolutely awed by being there.  Ken and Karen helped us see the Alamo connection to so many other states and the history of Texas in a way we would not have grasped on our own.  This made it so much more than a 'been there' visit.   The gardens were an unexpected delight too-worth the visit.    And ---we got to park across the street in the 'staff' parking lot.



We walked from the Alamo to the River Walk to take the historic boat tour on the river and canal system.  I had no idea that the River Walk waters were designed and channeled in the 1940's to prevent flooding in the downtown area.  I thought it was all just a fairly recent  'tourist attraction'!  After a very informative and entertaining boat ride we had lunch at the oldest riverside restaurant which opened in 1946!  Amazing!  As you can see the boat ride was quite scenic too!


Ken and Karen were great guides for the Missions.  They are located in a maze of old neighborhoods on backstreets of the city.  We would have been lucky to see one or two on our own but they whisked us to each one.  Our first stop was Mission Concepcion, the largest and best preserved.  Ken operates the Gristmill here as a volunteer.  It is being repaired now, but we got a personal tour and explanation of the water storage, sluice and grinding process.  The other missions are much smaller like the one pictured, Mission Espada.  Each Mission is very unique and I loved getting to see them all.  Here is the interior of one, Mission San Juan, I think.  Such beauty in simplicity and age.



We had a wonderful time in the city and loved Karen and Ken's home and neighborhood.  Terry was ready to buy a house up the street and he didn't think he could ever live in Texas!?  It was hard to say goodbye, but the Bayou country was calling!


We found a fantastic campground set on 5 fishing ponds near Lafayette in Breaux Bridge.  It was owned by the Poche family whose meat market and restaurant about 2 miles down the road is the real deal for Cajun food.  Our lunch there the next day became 3 meals of the first crawfish I had ever eaten.      
I had Crawfish Ettouffle and Terry had a huge Stuffed Pork Chop that made 2 meals for him.  We spent just long enough in the area to know that we need to devote about 2 weeks to culinary adventures around here.  Look out 2016 for our return!