Narrow Boats, Canals and the River Avon

Shortly before leaving for our trip we watched a video from You Tube on living full time in a narrow boat on the canals of England.  Terry just happened on it searching for mobile tiny houses.    It was one of our favorite kind of stories about 'ditching the big city job', selling the stuff and adopting an alternative lifestyle.  The narrow boat he had re-done to his needs was just beautiful and he described the joy of finding pretty spots to moor on quiet, peaceful canals.  We'd crossed canals in Sussex, but never saw any boats.

Then as we crossed the River Avon coming into Stratford there were more boats than we could count on both sides of the bridge.  We found parking along the river and walked back to the harbor.  The first view stopped me in my tracks.

Around the bend a tour boat attracted the famous swans of Stratford and we learned later that it was a long boat and about 15 feet wide.

The Inland Waterways Association Long Boat was moored in the town harbor and they answered lots of questions we had about the different boats, the canals and the lock system.  The true narrow boat is only 7 feet wide on the exterior and fits in the older canal locks like the one for the harbor.  They encouraged us to check out the really small one docked just beyond.

They didn't mention the wood stove inside and the peat fire going or the bicycles and the CB antennae Terry noticed right away.  What a great little home!

The next boat over had lots more living space and many more windows.  It seemed lots more livable to me.  After enjoying a stroll around the other boats there, it was time for tea and a scone.  Right behind us was this huge theater (something to do with Shakespeare) including a tea room, gift shop and toilets.

Our stop for tea gave the police just time enough to ticket our car for no 'pay and display'.  We never saw the sign a block behind us, but after all this was Stratford-on-Avon.  No free parking here.  Terry chatted with the policeman who said we could pay up online!  'No problem at all."

The ferry to Belfast would be awaiting us early the next morning in Liverpool so the Citroen scooted us up the M6 and around Birmingham to our hotel in Ellesmere Port.  Our stay in England had been too short, but filled with unexpected fun and adventure.

Another 'Memory Lane' and New Trail Too!

In the early 1970's I spent lots of time and energy exploring the Chapel Hill area on my bicycle and even did a little racing too!  I was attached enough to my bicycle that I packed it in a box and took it to Copenhagen to meet my sister, Jane, there.  When I could not get the bike back together, we decided to eliminate the language problem and go to England instead.  Pictures I'd seen of the Cornwall Coast intrigued me so we set off that direction.  I didn't know that the Cots ('sheep pens') wolds ('hills') were between us and Cornwall.  Nor did I know that this 'Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty' would call me back 44 years later.

I remember that after climbing this dreadful, long and steep hill on our bikes, we rolled into the little town of Chipping Campden.

We were immediately charmed by the warm honey colored stone that made every building.

The fields in all directions from the town were filled with sheep, herders and dogs.  We even stood entranced as a herder directed his dogs by hand signals to round up the sheep.

You can imagine my excitement when the first place I booked for our trip was a sheep farm 'stay' in the Cotswolds.  The farm has been in the family for 3 generations and the farmhouse was built in 1625.  The town of Chipping Campden is about 5 miles away.

Our upstairs room had a lovely view across the hills.

At the top of the hill we found the Cotswold Way another of the 15 National Trails of England and Wales.  It crosses the Cotswolds to Bath.

The view back toward Chipping Campden enticed me on a short amble along the sheep fields as sheep called back and forth.

On this hazy early Autumn morning it was very hard to leave the trail behind,  but Terry had not been to Stratford on Avon and it wasn't too far away.

Lighthouses on the South Down Way

The South Down Way that we stumbled on in the town of Alfriston actually starts 11 miles east where the chalk hills end at the sea.  This creates a view of the "Seven Sisters" cliffs often wrongly named as the White Cliffs of Dover.  This area near Eastbourne is called Beachy Head.

When we learned there were 2 lighthouses within 2 miles,  we had to check it out with this longer walk on the South Down Way.  The day was cold, and very windy on the high cliff path, but the views were incredible!

Our destination was the older, inactive Belle Tout LH on the distant hill.  It was moved back about the same time as Cape Hatteras and is a home now.  We were startled to discover that every ripple in the cliff edge was a sharp glen to walk down and climb back up.  Progress was slow.

As you can see it just got more and more beautiful as we walked.

Being at the base of the hill before the chalk trail started was enough for us as the winds got stronger and colder, so we turned back towards the Visitor Center.  There is only so much beauty you can take in.

As we returned the second lighthouse, Beachy Head,  which is active and replaced Belle Tout came into view.  It was much closer as we climbed down one of the glens.  It was built in 1899--quite a feat for the times.  Our earlier view of it from the cliff top shows the cliff heights.

Hastings-- Old and New

From our arrival at Gatwick Airport in London we followed the signs to car rental and got our little Citroen, C1.  Then with all the bravery we could muster, we installed the UK chip for our GPS system and set off  for Hastings.  First challenge was getting out of the crowded car rental center.  Second, was staying on the left side of the road.  Third, was navigating the narrow streets with cars parked both sides half on the sidewalks.   Terry did a wonderful job and I was a nervous wreck.  The only time I screeched was when we nicked just one mirror on the hilly streets of new Hastings.

Streetside Cash

Since it was a Friday we needed a bank and cash for the days to come. ( Cash at the airport is always very costly.)  Terry carefully navigated several city roundabouts to find parking near a bank,  while I grabbed my "Global Card" to get some Sterling.  Well...... the only way to get cash in the UK is with a card that has a pin number.  Panic set in as I realized that 2 of my 3 cards had no pin numbers  and my debit card in the ATM machine was my only option.  So there I stood on the street getting money for 4 days worth of expenses.  Enough to make me a little nervous about the street people around me.

Foyle's War Locations

Finally at our lovely B&B, we could hardly keep our eyes open until 7 pm.  Our wonderful hosts, both London natives,  gave us a tour map for Old Hastings and the Foyle's War locations the next morning.  If you haven't seen this BBC Series, don't miss it!  The location area is like stepping back in time.  So different from the busy seaside town of new Hastings crowded with shops, cafes and rows of Victorian hotels.

In the series Foyle was the police superintendent living in this house during WW II.  The cases he has to solve are mostly war related and full of history.

The town streets twist up to the cliffs above the sea with narrow lanes and alleys.

Terry hardly fit in this alley that led to a house door.

In one of the episodes a bomb fell on the local Pub and Inn.   I thought of this as merely another scene in the story not a reality of WWII in Hastings.   We found a memorial sign and garden that mark the spot where the tragedy occurred.  All the other buildings around it were not damaged.

The local church is in many episodes that depict the loss of lives in the town.

Of course, we couldn't leave Old Hastings without a' spot of tea'.  Our hosts get all their bread from Judges Bakery and advised we stop in for a tea and scone.  They were so right!!!

Down Memory Lane and Some New Trails Too! ----- Sussex, England!

A long time ago-- in 1965-- I studied for 6 weeks at the University of Sussex in England.  The new Library behind Terry had just been dedicated by Queen Elizabeth in Nov. 1964.

 Just last year it was listed as a Historic Place on it's 50th Birthday.  We had to search the now huge campus to find it and get special permission to enter.  I was beyond happy to see the corners where I had studied just the same.  The windows weren't open as they always used to be though.  I remember I was always chilly in there!

Returning to Sussex was the main reason for our visit to England.  I had always wanted to see the rolling hills and seaside again.  Many times we had been about 40 minutes away at Gatwick Airport on our way to Ireland from Raleigh.  Then last winter our neighbors, John and Pat, got us hooked on the BBC Series, 'Foyle's War' set in the town of Hastings on the Sussex Coast.  Suddenly we both had an interest in Sussex and it's history.  So we spent 3 days exploring the Hastings area east of the University.


One of our favorite towns was Alfriston, a stumble on, when we were forced off a roundabout by an accident ahead.   The very narrow crowded streets were scary, but a nice lunch at the deli in the Post Office strengthened us for exploring.

Some of the timbered buildings looked very old.

The tea shop we enjoyed later was built in 1480.  Terry had to stoop under the doors and timbers.

We didn't know that the courtyard seating had this view of the green and Church.

I remembered reading about a trail to a nearby town so after tea we wandered down a promising lane and to my surprise

 we found one of England's 37 National Trails leading to several towns and the seaside.  We only walked a little across the White Bridge to gaze at the hills beyond.

But --- you got to love a country that values walking enough to have 37 trails like this!

Dancing in the Street-Sparta, NC

There's lots to celebrate in the NC mountains and fall is a great season for special events.  Last weekend the Blue Ridge Parkway remembered the early settlers along the ridge at Brinegar Cabin.
Volunteers brought sheep and wool, cooked Apple Butter and Ranger Abby demonstrated natural dyeing with local plants.  Lots of activities on a beautiful day!

What a face on this little yearling- too young to be sheared this season!

The town of Sparta is just below the Brinegar Cabin and some descendants still call Sparta home.  Each September Sparta celebrates with the Mountain Heritage Festival.  The main street is closed and filled with music, dancers, food and crafts.  Local school children are taught traditional mountain music at school.  The Festival usually includes a performance with some amazing skill on display.

The old movie theater is across the street from the Courthouse and just past our wonderful hardware  store.  Decades ago it was converted to Alleghany Jubilee, a local music and dance hall.  Every Monday night finds me there line dancing with a really fine performance group.  Here they come!  Ready to dance!

You can tell we have a great time!

I am so lucky to have such a fine group of friends who can share the joy of dancing each week and performing at home and across the state.

There are about 8 more dancers who come and go like I do and don't perform, but our shared fun glues us together.  Our annual Bar-B-Que (that means sauced pork) is Monday night at Helen's farm.  I've never been here for the event, so I'm excited!

The leaves are just beginning to turn yellow and blow about in the wind.  The geese were calling as they flew from the river to the lake.  More mornings are foggy than bright.  The hay has been cut and baled.  The pumpkins are being loaded in wagons to take to the trucks.  Fall is really coming to the mountains of NC.

Keeping Up with Rex and the Wedding Day

We were so pleased when Terry's, Uncle Rex, said he would join us for a visit to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.  We had only been there once for a short visit.  Being there with him enabled us to see all of the Grand Canyon in 3 days.  I don't think we missed a single overlook, shuttle trip or museum in the South Side.  His energy kept us on the move from 7:30 am when he awaited us at his hotel to late afternoon each day.  The west Rim Drive requires bus travel only and the air conditioned buses were most comfortable for our trip out to Hermit's Rest View.

In the early year's of the tourist visitation, a horse back trip led to a tent camp in the trees above the river seen down below.  Mary Coulter designed a lodge here above which is now a gift shop and cafe.

We also enjoyed a wonderful IMAX movie about raft travel through the Canyon.  It was an amazing and 'gripping' experience.  Here's one of the steepest rapids in the world seen from an overlook on the rim.

We rested a day at Mather Campground after Rex left to catch our breath and reflect on what a wonderful time we had enjoyed together!

The next day we headed west to Oregon for our friend, Carlie's wedding.  We worked with Carlie for 3 years at Willamette Mission State Park. She was engaged while we were there and we had to return for her wedding on June 11.  Of course, it was held in Oregon's premier State Park, Silver Falls.  It was a lovely setting as you can see as the 'happy couple' walk to the reception shelter.

All the decor was handmade by Carlie and Craig and they raffled it for their honeymoon fund.  What a cool idea!  We both won Oregon tree branch tea light stands, moss included.

And how about the roaring fire in the fireplace behind the lovely couple!  It was a very cool Oregon day.  Terry and I were both happy to tend the fire and restock it!  Here's a close up look at our very special newly married friends!!

It was truly an event worth driving across country to share!!

Bumpy Road to the Grand Canyon

Our 'mobile mansion' is sitting beside the cabin as we 'rough it' this time out West.  Little did we know that we would both get awful colds on the way, I'd have multiple agonizing bites from a New Mexico creepy crawler, and the refrigerator would fail.  Sooo we were very thankful for some recovery time in a Rt. 66 Motel-The Sunset Inn- in Moriarity, NM. and finally a lovely campsite at the Grand Canyon.  The site was huge, peaceful, quiet and right next to a clean restroom.  Our campground was only a few miles from Uncle Rex's exceptionally nice Best Western and we actually arrived within minutes of each other!  We made an easy connect for a wonderful adventure together.

The next day we got an early morning start to travel 22 miles east to the Desert View Watchtower.  A structure designed and built about 1930 by Mary Coulter an architect for the Fred Harvey Company of the Santa Fe Railroad.  She was hired to further the connection with the Native Americans who had lived and worshipped in the Grand Canyon for centuries.  She traveled all over the Southwest to study Native architecture and the Watchtower is a structure similar to a square one we saw at Hovenweap NM in Colorado.  It is very famous for the detail in the stone structure.

The interior walls and ceiling are richly painted with Hopi symbols in brilliant colors.  Narrow stairs circle up to the top view deck.

Terry and Rex studied the light sconces made from pottery bowls.  There is almost too much to see!

After admiring the view from the top we had coffee and a snack at the shop.  It was beginning to get crowded so we drove back toward the Visitor Center and stopped to see a view of the river rapids.

There is an actual Native American village ruin and museum on this Drive.  Archeologists found very unusual split twig figures made from one twig. They can be viewed at the museum.

After a very full exciting first day on the South Rim, it was nice to return to our little Teardrop and the comfort of our own bed.  Doesn't it look great with the colorful quilt Jane made for Terry on it??!!

Our sweet and simple 'bed on wheels' gets much attention and we have lots of  'tours' to give each day.